Fencing a 20 x 26 Foot Vegetable Garden with One 100-Foot Roll of 4-Foot 12-Gauge Welded Wire: 14 Posts, a 4-Foot Gate Gap, and 12 Feet Left Over
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A 20 x 26 foot garden has a 92-foot perimeter, and a 4-foot gate gap leaves 88 feet of fence to hang. One 100-foot roll covers it in a single piece with 12 feet left for tie-off wraps and a patch, so you never splice mid-run.
How much welded wire do you need to fence a small vegetable garden?
Measure the perimeter, subtract the gate opening, and add a few inches at each end for the wraps. A 20 by 26 foot garden needs 88 feet of fabric after a 4-foot gate, so one 100-foot roll of 4-foot welded wire fences it in a single piece.
The University of Georgia Extension garden fencing guide says a 3-foot-high wire fence is very effective for keeping out dogs and cats. For rabbits it recommends a 2-foot chicken wire fence with 1-inch mesh and a 12-inch apron bent toward the outside and buried several inches.
Iowa State University Extension's rabbit protection page also calls for mesh of 1 inch or smaller for rabbits. It says to pin the fence tightly to the ground or bury the bottom 1 to 2 inches.
Layout and Post Count
| Side | Length | Posts on this side (corners shared) | Spacing |
|---|---|---|---|
| North (gate side) | 20 ft. | 2 corners + 2 gate posts | 8 ft., 4 ft. gate, 8 ft. |
| South | 20 ft. | 2 line posts | 6 ft. 8 in. |
| East | 26 ft. | 3 line posts | 6 ft. 6 in. |
| West | 26 ft. | 3 line posts | 6 ft. 6 in. |
| Total | 92 ft. perimeter | 14 posts | 88 ft. of fabric |
That is 4 wood corners, 2 wood gate posts, and 8 steel line posts, all set before the roll comes off.
Materials and Tools
- 12-gauge 4-foot by 100-foot welded wire roll, one roll
- Six treated 4x4 posts, 8 feet long, for corners and the gate
- Eight 6-foot studded T-posts with clips
- 9-gauge fence staples for the wood posts and a T-post driver
- A 50-foot roll of 24-inch 1-inch chicken wire if rabbits are the main pest
- String line, tape measure, gloves, and safety glasses
Build Steps
- Stake the rectangle. Set corner stakes at 20 x 26 feet and check that both diagonals read about 32 feet 10 inches.
- Set the wood posts. Sink the four corners and two gate posts 30 inches deep, with the gate posts 4 feet apart inside to inside.
- Drive the line posts. Pull a string between corners and drive the eight T-posts on the spacing in the table.
- Start at a gate post. Staple the cut end of the roll to the west gate post, wrapping the first vertical wire around the post.
- Unroll clockwise. Walk the roll around the corners, stapling at each corner and clipping each T-post.
- Snug it by hand. Pull out the roll's curl at each corner before stapling; a 4-foot garden fence needs no stretcher.
- Finish at the east gate post. Cut the roll with 6 inches to spare and wrap the cut end around the post.
- Add the rabbit band. Run the 24-inch chicken wire along the bottom outside face and pin or bury its lower edge.
Check that the gap at the bottom of the fabric stays under 2 inches everywhere.
Mistakes That Waste the Roll
- Starting at a corner instead of a gate post leaves a seam on a side
- Forgetting the gate gap and wrapping the roll around all 92 feet leaves you short
- Leaving the roll's curl in makes the fence bow between posts
- Large welded-wire openings let young rabbits walk through without the 1-inch band
Rabbits that still dig need the deeper wall in rabbit-proofing a vegetable garden with a 24-inch hardware cloth wall. Deer pressure calls for the taller layout in setting an 8-foot T-post deer fence around a vegetable garden.
The hardware cloth mesh size and gauge guide covers which mesh stops voles at the base.
Hard ground slows the line posts, so read driving 6-foot and 8-foot T-posts in clay and rocky soil first.
FAQ
Is 4 feet tall enough?
For dogs, cats, and rabbits, yes. Deer jump it easily.
Can I use the 12 leftover feet?
Yes, as a gate infill or a patch where a dog digs.

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