Skunk-Proofing the Gap Under Concrete Porch Steps with a 1/2-Inch Hardware Cloth L-Skirt, Tapcon Anchors, and a Hinged One-Way Exit Flap

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Confirm the skunk is out, then close the gap under the steps with a skirt of 1/2-inch 19-gauge galvanized hardware cloth. Anchor the top edge to the concrete with 3/16 × 1-1/4-inch Tapcons and 1-1/4-inch fender washers every 8 inches, run the mesh 12 inches down into a trench, and bend it 12 inches outward before you backfill. If anything might still be under there, hang a hinged one-way flap over the main hole first and seal it only after 3 nights with no tracks going in.

Why Skunks Pick Porch Steps

Poured steps often settle away from the house or sit on fill that washes out, leaving a dry, dark void with one small entrance. Missouri Department of Conservation's skunk control page notes that female skunks sometimes burrow under concrete slabs to den and bear young. It says to prevent that by burying wire mesh along the slab.

The same page warns that young skunks may be present in May and June, and that sealing the opening then would result in starvation and odor. If possible, it says to wait until the young abandon the den, typically by mid-August, then seal it.

University of Missouri Extension's skunk management guide calls for 1/4- or 1/2-inch hardware cloth to seal openings under porches. It says to bury the mesh 12 to 18 inches where a skunk could dig, with the bottom 6 inches bent outward in an L.

Timing: When You Can Seal

Window Status under the steps What to do
Late August to February Kits gone; adults may den alone Flour test, one-way flap, then seal
March to April Females choosing den sites Seal now if no tracks for 3 nights
May to mid-August Kits may be inside Do not seal; fix only the parts away from the active hole

Never block an occupied den. A skunk trapped behind fresh mesh digs a new hole beside it, or the kits die under your steps.

Skirt Spec

Part Spec Why
Mesh 1/2-inch galvanized hardware cloth, 19 gauge, 36-inch roll Heavy enough to resist claws; one width covers face, trench, and flap
Above grade Up the concrete face to at least 2 inches above the highest gap Covers the crack where the step meets the soil
Below grade 12 inches straight down Matches the shallow end of the 12- to 18-inch bury depth
Outward flap 12 inches horizontal, away from the steps A skunk digs at the wall, hits mesh, and gives up
Anchors 3/16 × 1-1/4-inch Tapcon screws with 1-1/4-inch fender washers Bites concrete; the washer clamps several wires
Anchor spacing Every 8 inches, plus one within 2 inches of each corner and seam No loose edge to pry
Seams and corners 3-inch overlap, tied with 16-gauge galvanized wire every 4 inches No gap wider than the mesh opening
One-way flap 1/2-inch mesh 6 inches larger than the hole on every side, hinged at top only Lets the skunk push out but not back in

Materials and Tools

  • VEVOR 1/2-inch 19-gauge hot-dipped galvanized hardware cloth, 36 in × 100 ft, for the skirt and the one-way flap
  • 3/16 × 1-1/4-inch Tapcon masonry screws, about 2 per linear foot
  • 1-1/4-inch galvanized fender washers, one per Tapcon
  • 5/32-inch carbide masonry bit and a hammer drill
  • 16-gauge galvanized tie wire and pliers
  • Aviation snips, a square-point shovel, a mattock for rocky soil, tape measure
  • All-purpose flour or fine sand for the track test
  • Leather gloves and safety glasses

Flour Test and One-Way Exit

  1. Find every hole. Walk the steps and the house wall beside them at dusk, and fill every hole except the main one loosely with soil.
  2. Dust the entrance. Sprinkle a 1/4-inch layer of flour across the main hole.
  3. Read the tracks. Check the next morning: tracks pointing out mean the skunk left for the night.
  4. Hang the flap. Cut 1/2-inch mesh 6 inches wider than the hole on all sides. Anchor only the top edge to the concrete with two Tapcons, and leave the sides and bottom free so the flap swings out.
  5. Wait 3 nights. Dust the flour again each evening. When you see no tracks going in for 3 nights, remove the flap and install the full skirt.

The hinged flap follows University of Missouri Extension's one-way design: hardware cloth larger than the entrance, hinged at the top, loose on the other three sides.

Skirt Install Sequence

  1. Call 811. Have utilities marked before you dig along the house.
  2. Dig the trench. Dig 12 inches deep and 12 inches wide along every open side of the steps, keeping the inside face of the trench tight against the concrete.
  3. Cut the mesh. Wear gloves and glasses, and cut on a cross wire. Each piece needs the above-grade height, plus 12 inches down, plus 12 inches out.
  4. Bend the L. Lay each piece over a straight 2x4 and fold it 90 degrees at the 12-inch mark from the bottom edge. The L footer is covered in more detail in installing a dig-under hardware cloth apron.
  5. Set the mesh. Stand the vertical leg against the concrete with the flap lying flat in the trench bottom, pointing away from the steps.
  6. Anchor the top. Drill 5/32-inch holes 1-1/2 inches deep, at least 2 inches from any concrete edge or crack, every 8 inches. Drive each Tapcon through a fender washer, clamping the mesh tight to the concrete.
  7. Lap the corners. Overlap every seam and corner by 3 inches, and tie it with wire every 4 inches.
  8. Close the house side. Where the steps meet the foundation, carry the mesh 4 inches onto the wall and anchor it there too.
  9. Backfill. Return the soil, tamp it in 4-inch layers, and grade it to slope away from the steps.

Common Porch Step Skunk-Proofing Mistakes

  • Sealing in May through mid-August, when kits may be inside
  • Blocking the hole after dark without a track test
  • Stopping the mesh at grade, so the skunk digs under it in one night
  • Stapling or gluing mesh to concrete instead of anchoring it
  • Using chicken wire, which skunks and raccoons tear open
  • Leaving the corner where the steps meet the house open
  • Leaving pet food, birdseed, or garbage out near the steps

FAQ

What if the skunk is out during the day and acting strangely?

Stay away and keep pets inside. Call your local animal control or state wildlife agency, since skunks are a rabies carrier and a sick one should be handled by a professional.

Can I use 1/4-inch hardware cloth instead?

Yes. It also stops mice and rats, but 23-gauge 1/4-inch cloth is lighter than 19-gauge 1/2-inch, so a determined skunk can tear it faster.

What about the cracks between the steps and the house?

Once the skunk is out, fill cracks under 1/2 inch with a polyurethane masonry sealant. Cover anything wider with mesh before you seal it.

Quick Porch Step Skunk-Proofing Checklist

  • No sealing from May to mid-August
  • Flour track test, then a hinged one-way flap
  • 3 nights with no tracks going in
  • 1/2-inch 19-gauge galvanized hardware cloth
  • 12 inches down and 12 inches out
  • Tapcons and fender washers every 8 inches
  • 3-inch laps tied every 4 inches
  • House corner covered, soil sloped away
  • Food and garbage cleaned up near the steps

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