Lifting Dahlia Tubers in Fall With a Spading Fork: Dig After Frost Kills the Tops, Protect the Necks, and Store Below 50°F

Dahlia tuber clump resting on a spading fork over loose autumn garden soil

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Dahlia clumps do not survive frozen soil in cold regions, so they come up each fall. The thin necks that join each tuber to the crown snap easily, and a fork treats them more gently than a shovel blade.

How do you dig up dahlia tubers with a spading fork?

Wait until frost kills the tops, then cut the stems just before you dig. Loosen the soil on all sides several inches out from the crown, and lift the whole clump gently. Wash off the soil, dry the clump out of direct sun, and store it cool but above freezing.

University of New Hampshire Extension's dahlia digging article says to dig after the top growth dies back or is killed by the first hard frost. It warns that the tuber neck is delicate and easily damaged while digging.

University of Wisconsin Extension's tender bulb storage article says a digging fork is less likely than a shovel to cause injury. It says to loosen the roots by digging several inches back from the base on all sides.

Dahlia Lifting and Storage Numbers

Item Figure Source
Dig after Frost kills the tops UNH, UW
Dig frost-killed plants Within a few days UW
Curing temperature 60 to 70°F UNH
Storage temperature Below 50°F, above freezing (UNH); 35 to 45°F (UW) UNH, UW
Storage humidity About 50% RH UW

Why Wait for Frost

UNH says the tubers keep developing for a time after the foliage dies, and more mature tubers store better. UW notes a light to moderate frost kills top growth without reaching the roots.

UNH also says to delay cutting stems until right before digging. The hollow stems can collect water and promote crown rot.

Working the Fork

Push the fork in several inches out from the stem and lever gently. Go around the plant on all sides before you try to lift anything.

Slide the fork under the clump and raise it, using your hand on the crown to steady it. Do not pull up on the stem.

Materials and Tools

  • 4-tine steel spading fork
  • Hand pruners for cutting stems
  • A garden hose or tub of water
  • Cardboard boxes or ventilated bags
  • Vermiculite, wood shavings, or peat moss
  • A permanent marker for labeling

Lifting Steps

  1. Wait for frost. Let it kill the foliage.
  2. Cut stems just before digging. Leave a short handle on the crown.
  3. Loosen all sides. Work the fork in a ring around the plant.
  4. Lift from below. Raise the clump with the fork, not the stem.
  5. Wash. Rinse the soil off with a hose or in a tub.
  6. Label. Write the variety on the tubers or a tag.
  7. Cure. Dry out of direct sun in a ventilated spot.
  8. Pack. Bed the clumps in slightly moist vermiculite or shavings.
  9. Check monthly. Remove any rot and mist if tubers shrivel.

Mistakes and Hazards

  • Prying under the clump before loosening all sides
  • Lifting the clump by its stem
  • Cutting stems days ahead of digging
  • Packing tubers in airtight containers
  • Storing them where they can freeze

The same lift-and-loosen approach works on perennials, as in lifting and splitting an overgrown daylily. Gopher-prone yards may need laying half-inch hardware cloth against gophers before spring replanting.

For choosing the right wire, see the hardware cloth mesh size and gauge guide.

FAQ

Should I divide dahlias in fall or spring?

UW says it is best to wait until spring to prevent spoilage in storage. UNH says some gardeners find fall division easier and divisions more convenient to store.

How wet should the storage material be?

UNH says a little moisture goes a long way, and a too-wet medium will likely rot the tubers.

What if the tubers shrivel in storage?

UW says to check monthly and mist lightly if they look dehydrated.

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