Stapling 2x4 Welded Wire to 4x4 Treated Posts on a 48-Inch Garden Fence: 1-3/4-Inch Barbed Staples, Seven per Line Post, and a Loose Crown

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Hold the fabric against the post, set a 9-gauge staple at least 1-3/4 inches long over every other horizontal wire, and turn each one slightly off the grain. Stop driving while the wire can still slide under the crown, then staple every wire home only at the end posts.

What size fence staple holds welded wire on a treated 4x4 post?

A 9-gauge hot-dip galvanized staple at least 1-3/4 inches long, preferably 2 inches, holds welded wire on a pressure-treated 4x4. Use barbed staples in softwood, drive them across the grain and slightly downward, and leave the crown loose on line posts so the wire can shift.

The BC Ministry of Agriculture's fence wire stapling factsheet sets a minimum of 9 ga x 1-3/4 in., preferably 2 in., and picks hot-dip galvanized over bright staples. It also says a staple turned so its legs spread tested about 40% stronger in pullout than one whose legs cross.

Ohio State's non-electric high tensile fence specification calls for barbed staples in softwood posts. It drives them diagonally to the grain at a slight downward angle and leaves space between staple and post.

Staple Count for a 64-Foot Run

A 48-inch roll of 2 x 4-inch welded wire has a horizontal wire every 4 inches, so it carries 13 horizontal wires. Line posts get every other wire, which is 7 staples. The two end posts get all 13.

Staple size (9 ga) Staples per pound (BC) Pounds for 75 staples
1-1/2 in. 72 1.04
1-3/4 in. 61 1.23
2 in. 58 1.29

A 64-foot run at 8-foot spacing has 9 posts: 7 line posts x 7 staples is 49, plus 2 end posts x 13 is 26, for 75 total.

Materials and Tools

  • Galvanized fence staples, 9 gauge, 1-3/4 or 2 inches, about 1-1/2 pounds
  • 64 feet of 48-inch 2 x 4-inch welded wire
  • Nine treated 4x4 posts already set at 8-foot centers
  • A 20-ounce framing hammer or fencing pliers with a hammer face
  • Leather gloves, safety glasses, and a chalk crayon

Stapling Steps

  1. Pick the face. Hang the fabric on the side of the posts that takes the push, usually the outside of a garden.
  2. Start at an end post. Pull the first vertical wire tight to the post and staple all 13 horizontal wires there, driving each staple fully home.
  3. Mark the line posts. Chalk a tick at wires 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, and 13 on every line post, counting from the top.
  4. Turn the staple. Hold it over the wire with the legs roughly 30 degrees off vertical so they straddle the grain.
  5. Angle it. Tip the points slightly downward on level ground so the pull of the fabric seats the crown.
  6. Drive it short. Stop about 1/8 inch before the crown touches the wire, so the wire still slides when you tug it.
  7. Hold, do not pull. Press the wire to the post with your free hand; never use the staple to draw the wire in.
  8. Finish the far end. Tension the fabric, then staple all 13 wires home on the last end post.

Each misplaced hammer blow chips zinc off the wire, so tap the staple, not the fabric.

Where Staples Fail

  • Legs driven straight along the grain split the post and pull out
  • Short 1-inch staples meant for hardwood loosen in softwood
  • Crowns hammered tight lock the wire, so one pushed panel bends instead of sharing the load
  • Bright, uncoated staples rust out of treated posts first

Loose fabric on an older fence needs the repair in re-stapling loose woven wire to wood line posts. Posts for this run are set as in hand-digging 8-inch holes for wood line posts.

If you add a mesh skirt for rabbits, the hardware cloth mesh size and gauge guide picks the opening. Fasten the skirt with the methods in fastening hardware cloth to wood frames.

FAQ

Can I use a pneumatic stapler?

Yes, if it shoots 9-gauge fence staples, but set the depth so the crown stays proud on line posts.

Do I staple the vertical wires?

No. Staple the horizontal line wires; the verticals ride along with them.

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